Suited & Booted

Originality is Nothing New

There used to be a time when any self-respecting man would not have answered the door without attaching a collar to his shirt. These days, in your leisure hours, you're free to wear what you like - clothing that's comfortable, what would have once quaintly been called bohemian. And in some areas of the media or entertainment, where it pays to be an individual, the same rules may apply to your working hours.

We've become so good at being funky that we may need a few pointers when it comes to elegance. Sir John Birt, as BBC Director General, reportedly derided the wearing of neckties. Meanwhile, designer Hedi Slimane, now at Dior, was pioneering the return of post-punk skinny ties to the catwalk and street. Now that dressing down, once rebellious, has become an orthodoxy, we've even fewer places to turn to for style advice.

You don't need an excuse like a party or wedding to dress-up. You're free to look stylish any time. We shouldn't let casual culture encourage us to think of formal clothes as less comfortable. The made-to-measure style of bespoke tailoring should guide our purchases, even of ready-to-wear suits. In fact, a suit that's more elegantly form-hugging will be more comfortable, and will bring out the best in its wearer. Comfort is an essential part of the right look, whatever your shape.

If you're feeling good about your job, don't let your appearance send out a different message - your suits should reflect your confidence. As Slimane says, I'd like to think there's a return to elegance, a revival of the notion of fashion for men. I've mounted a crusade against this informal 'casual Friday' trend. I'd like men to think about evolving into something more sophisticated, more seductive.

CLASSIC STYLES: Suits you, Sir
If you make the right purchasing decisions, you can look good in a suit whatever your body shape.

The shoulders are especially important - thin men look best in a narrow cut with little or no shoulder padding, narrow trousers, slim lapels and a nipped-in waist. The jacket should fall softly over the hips.

A broad-shouldered, athletic type should similarly go without shoulder padding, but with a more flattering double-breasted outfit.

A more corpulent man should avoid features that make him look larger. Lapels of a medium width are more suitable. Whereas slightly shorter trousers, with their hem at Achilles tendon rather than heel, will lengthen the look of the legs. Belts have a tendency to bisect the body laterally and shorten its appearance, but braces will elongate it.